Anon. Qing Dynasty Chinese Silk Rank Badge

An original 19th-century embroidered silk Qing Dynasty Chinese Silk Rank Badge.

A beautiful 19th-century Chinese rank badge, embroidered in fine polychrome and gold metal wrapped thread on a midnight-blue silk gauze ground.

Rank badges (buzi), also known as Mandarin squares, were traditionally sewn onto or woven into the wearer’s garments to demonstrate civil, military or imperial rank. The practice began in 1391 during the Ming Dynasty and continued throughout the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911). Civil officials wore insignia with different bird species corresponding to their rank, while animals denoted military officers.

The bird to the centre of the design here is a green-legged egret, which denotes a sixth rank official. The sun disk to the upper left of the badge indicates that this was a man's badge as opposed to a woman's. The bird is surrounded by scrolling flowers and lingzhi cloud motifs. Beautiful gold foil wrapped thread creates glistening highlights secured by couching stitch. The design has a wonderful geometric quality on account of the meticulously counted satin stitch.

Lower ranked badges, such as this one, tend to be more scarce, because higher ranking officials could afford many badges. The design and stiching of this badge suggests it may be early to mid-19th century.

The back of the badge is a paler blue fine silk fabric.